if someone asked me to describe my evolving relationship with food, the story would be long—-like anna karenina long—-or ben hur director’s cut long. there would be many chapters, and each would be full of amazing twists and turns. you would laugh and you would cry, but mostly you’d be hungry—insatiably hungry. i am an overeater; i am a foodie; i am a person whose life story can be told in terms of what was eaten and why.
when i was a child, i ate a good diet of home-cooked meals laced with what had to have been (judging by the box of happy meal toys that i found and got rid of when i went to college) an impressive amount of mcdonald’s food. there were three of us, me, my brother jeff, and my sister randi, and the lure of little plastic toys hidden under deliciously greasy fries and burgers must have made us a formidable spokesforce for fast food. (“buuuut moooooooooooooooom!”). mcdonald’s hamburgers were like crack—-crack that came with a playground unlike anything in the backyards of my friends. i mean, who in their right mind could pass up golden rows of fries cooked in beef fat (this was changed when vegetarians complained some years later), and slides and tunnels that, though hot as the center of the sun (they were metal back then) provided what felt like eons of amusement? i still remember how my hands smelled after touching the metal and playing in the dusty playground pebbles. magic.
when i got older, years of overeating and of overindulgence in sweets had wrecked my weight. i was pudgy as a child, but as an adolescent, the problem only magnified. i tried all manner of diets—we did low cal, low fat, turkey instead of beef, diet coke instead of full cal soda, you name it. nothing really worked for me, but it all succeeded in making me more miserable. i hadn’t found the right combination—and it was a shame, because god knows life is hard to live as a fat teen. i was reminded of this sad truth when a friend of mine posted on facebook about not wanting his daughter to grow up with body image issues—-i chuckled ironically to myself, since this same person made several nasty remarks to me about my weight when we were in middle school. no matter how wise and protective we feel as adults, we all know that at one point in our lives we either were different or had the capacity to help make someone’s life a living hell for being different. probably a little of both.
i powered through anyway because i was smart and had the best friends a person could have, but college had another surprise waiting for me. living on my own (or with friends) and having complete autonomy over my eating choices (combined with a serious lack of cash) meant that, for my 6 years of undergrad, i ate mostly crap. ramen noodles were a staple, and since we had tons of mandatory dining dollars as students, the local vendors who accepted the college currency (dominos, blimpie, burger king, etc.) got fat right along with me. i got into the bad habit of eating nothing all day and then coming home and stuffing myself until i went to bed. combine this with weekend nights at the club (seriously, do you know how many calories are in your favorite mixed drinks?) and i topped out at a whopping 265 pounds. congratulations miss hall; here are your two bachelor’s degrees—and your hover-round.
during college, my weight had gone up and down in grand yo-yo fashion. i tried weight watchers, curves exercise club, the hollywood diet, fasting, spending four hours a day at the rec center, journaling my meals, diet pills—i even took a trip to the kirklin clinic in birmingham to see an endocrinologist about my thyroid. nothing much came of that (besides the fact that i found out my horribly swollen thyroid was not cancerous), and i stopped taking the pills they put me on because i was going to have to wear a medic-alert bracelet; the metformin listed blackouts as a possible side-effect.
life after college was an interesting mix of things wonderful and terrible. the terrible was that, for some reason, random drive-by taunts of my weight seemed eerily commonplace, even now that both i and the taunters had “grown up.” gems included being told, out a car window, that i was so fat that i should just go kill myself. i’d never before wished harder for a big rock and a sure aim. the wonderful was that i met my husband to be, stephen, who even now reminds me that i shouldn’t worry about my weight because he fell it love with me when i was the heaviest i’d ever been. we jokingly instituted a 300 pound rule for each other, and he constantly made me feel beautiful, no matter my weight (still does!).
my battle for weight loss continued during our courtship and engagement (which coincided with a very sedentary stint in graduate school), but this time—perhaps for the first time ever—i felt like i could lose weight for myself and not so that i would be attractive and desirable to other people. even that wasn’t easy though. stephen and i had found a little apartment just off campus. this was a plus for me, since i could walk to work and save on gas, but it also meant that we were close to pizza, the dreaded tut’s calzone, mexican food, thai food, chinese food, and ice cream. because we were so busy at first, and later just because it had become habit, we ate out all the time. the bliss of living happily had taken its toll, and a year before the wedding, we knew that something had to be done.
enter bariatrics. i still to this day don’t know how i did that terrible program—i suppose because it, unlike everything else i’d ever tried, was tremendously effective. a year before the wedding, stephen and i both got into a program where you eat five “supplements” a day, plus 5 saltines, a pickle, light ‘n fit yogurt, and unlimited sugar-free jello. you also had to drink about a gallon of water a day (don’t know how i still have kidneys). we figured out that to maintain sanity, we’d also need a dressing-free salad every day and one cheat day a week. this helped keep us from eating one another. as part of the program, we had to go in once a week and pay $25 dollars to be weighed and have our blood pressure taken. labs were done every 6 weeks to check cholesterol. weight loss was tremendous at first (sure as hell better have been for 900 calories a day!) and then tapered off to 2-3 pounds a week. we stayed on bariatrics for about a year (lapses included) and lost 160 pounds between us. on my wedding day, i had lovely arms, the hint of a collarbone, and my dress had been taken down from a 20 to a 12.
needless to say, the 24-hour eat-fest that was the carnival cruise honeymoon signaled the start of a return to old habits. coupled with the happiness of marriage, falling off the bariatrics wagon put the weight back on faster than it came off. it didn’t work precisely because it starved the weight off without teaching you how to eat. i still can’t believe that i ate that horrid, packaged bullshit for so long. i literally starved myself until my hair started breaking and falling out (not to worry, said the doctor—all normal side effects). i had ignored the pitiful science behind the program, all for the sake of losing a few pounds. once, when i had expressed to the doctor that i was worried about the possibility of becoming pregnant on such a limited diet, he just laughed and noted that the diet actually “made people more fertile,” and that lots of his patients had gotten pregnant “as a result of” bariatrics. i didn’t see the point in letting him know that he was partially right and partially wrong—under-eating doesn’t make you fertile (it does the opposite), but certainly dramatic weight-loss increased the sex that most of his patients were having. nothing makes a big girl randier than losing five dress sizes—and nothing excites a man like an excited woman.
so 265 became 180 became 250—all in the blink of an eye. whatever. so it goes. over the past two years, i’ve seen all of the beautiful clothes that i bought post-bariatrics go from snug to holy-shit-i-used-to-wear-this-? status. in that time, i tried nutrisystem, but the expense was overwhelming and i just couldn’t take the overload of processed foods. while falling off of the bariatrics death-wagon, i’d really gotten into writers like michael pollan, and documentaries about how our food is made had slowly built up a new soapbox for me. although it’s taken me a long time to actually DO anything with the information, i learned that low-cal, low-fat, no-carb, approaches to dieting are damaging to health, and that our entire food chain, from the ground up, is made of crap—-pure crap.
one of pollan’s books, food rules, contains some of the most profound advice for avoiding the crap. it was all so simple—no huge, complicated formulas; no overly complex and expensive menu; no outlandish ideas. it’s all intuitive, and its essence is simplicity. he says eat food, not too much, mostly plants. bam! that simple. the difficulty with the simplicity for most of us though is in the definition of “food.” pollan’s pocket-sized book further illuminates his command with a string of short and sweet maxims like: don’t eat food that your grandmother wouldn’t recognize, avoid foods containing ingredients that no human would keep in their pantry, avoid foods containing ingredients that a third grader can’t pronounce, and avoid the middle of the grocery store in favor of the periphery. the book contains 64 food rules, the last of which is “break the rules once in a while.”
even though i taught an entire college writing class based on pollan’s work, it was hard for me, in the life and routine that i’d created for myself, to follow his rules—even if i knew with every fiber of my being that they were the key to health. for me, it took a change of venue, in the biggest sense of the word, to be able to over-haul my dietary life. since my move to maine, i’ve come to realize what an enormous influence our surroundings have on our health. in tuscaloosa, i had everything at my fingertips—easy access to food and a steady influx of cash. i was like an alcoholic living in a liquor store—or an ex-smoker working on the set of mad men. since coming to maine and adjusting to an entirely new way of life in the country, two farms, summit springs and rippling waters (auspicious names, given my watery constitution), have helped me establish an entirely new way of eating and living.
i’ve known for a long time that i’d love to be part of a csa (community supported agriculture) group. i had tried in tuscaloosa, but all i accomplished was getting on and staying on snow’s bend farm’s csa share waiting list for a whopping two and a half years. csas are pretty interesting creatures. to participate, you pay a farmer a lump sum up front in exchange for a weekly box of seasonal produce all throughout the growing year. unlike a farmer’s market, csa boxes mean that you get what you get—no choices. you get what’s ready when it’s ready, and there’s a great deal of variety throughout the spring, summer, and fall. unlike the produce at a chain grocery store, you know your food was grown locally, sustainably, and organically. you know that your asparagus wasn’t flown in from chile and that your spring mix isn’t from china. you know that you’re supporting a local family and that a portion of your money is going toward the meager stipend received by eager apprentices who are busy learning how to start their own organic farms. you know that you’re not just buying veggies—you’re investing in your community and in the health of your family.
usually when you join a csa, you pay for your shares in the winter. that way, the farm has the money that they need for start-up, planting, and growing expenses. we were in an interesting situation in that stephen and i moved up to maine halfway through the season. thankfully, i was able to hook up with a farm in poland, maine called summit spring that had some shares left and was willing to prorate our fee and stick us on the list. every tuesday, we drive over with a bag and pick up whatever has been harvested. it’s enough to last us through the whole week, and the variety has forced me to expand my cooking repertoire quite a bit. so far, we’ve gotten garlic, potatoes, summer squash, zucchini, tomatoes, lettuce, beets, cucumbers, basil, eggplant, kale, onion, green beans, and cauliflower. since today is tuesday, stephen will be going back to get more. i can’t wait to see what he brings home!
i have no intention of becoming a slave to the scales again with all the daily weigh-ins and number-worship, but i have to say that, so far, i feel absolutely amazing since i’ve cut the crap out of my diet. i’m eating healthy, but at the same time, the glutton inside is satisfied by the fact that we actually have to work diligently to be able to eat as much food as we’re bringing home. i’m eating a lot and often, but when it’s fresh squash, it doesn’t matter. more is actually better. for the first time ever, i know where my food is coming from, i know who’s growing it, and i know what their agricultural practices are. for the first time ever, i have a positive and beneficial relationship with food—what a mind-blowing thing!
the experience has become even sweeter now that i’ve started my august job—i decided to apprentice on an organic farm. about the same time that i contacted summit springs about a half-share in their csa, i came across the facebook page for another local organic farm, rippling waters. the last wall post mentioned that they were looking for august help three days a week, and i jumped on it. i contacted the farm manager, julee, and told her that i was looking for something to do between the time that i moved in and the time that school started. she said that she’d love to sign me on as an apprentice, and that i’d receive a small stipend in addition to any produce that i wanted to glean from the fields.
the farm is amazing! there are dozens of varieties of veggies and herbs in both traditional fields and mandala-type gardens, there are greenhouses, and the central hub is comprised of a barn for processing and storing and a house where apprentices cook and sleep. there are around five acres of cultivated fields, there’s a permaculture garden, and there are many more plans in farm manager julee’s head. there’s also a store where folks can stop and buy plants and veggies, and the whole operation is run be some fantastically nice folks.
so i started my apprenticeship two weeks ago, and i can honestly say that i’ve never had to work so hard (or been so sore and tired) in my entire life! you really can’t know what goes into running a farm until you jump into it head first, and boy did i ever. the first day that i was there, i picked pattypan squash (which is like reaching three feet through velcro made of needles), i weeded a bed and planted lettuce plugs (very fun up here in maine where there are no fire ants, poisonous spiders, redbugs, or poisonous snakes!), i picked hornworms off of tomatoes (which was disgusting—hornworms are alice in wonderland monsters that click and spit at you), i harvested beebalm (while enjoying the intoxicating smell and discovering strange new bugs like the hummingbird moth), i bagged calendula blossoms (and received an offer from julee to grow any herbs that i’m interested in!,) and i helped prepare garlic bulbs for curing.
on my second day, the real work started. fridays are harvest days, and everyone is scooting around busily preparing for the big farmer’s markets in portland and bridgton. i harvested more squash, eggplant, four varieties of chard (hard to do since the bugs had first pick of the leaves!), four varieties of kale (which soaked me from the waist down since they were waist-high and drenched in dew), four types of potatoes (washed and sorted by size), a dozen or so pints of sungold cherry tomatoes (which get even my tomato-hating seal of approval), three types of onions, and 12 bunches of basil. after the harvest, things had to be weighed, counted, and packed off for market. having come from a life of reading, typing, and general ass-sitting, i found myself rather ill-prepared for toting heavy crates of veggies across a farm and spending hours bent over and stooping to pick. when i came home that night, i thought i might die.
lest the magic end, i spent almost the entirety of my third day weeding, hoeing, and pulling stray roots from about 200 square feet of permaculture garden. luckily i had good company—a volunteer named patty—but hoeing in sunny, 85-degree weather for four hours straight almost got the best of me. when i thought i might collapse into an out-of-shape pile of goo, one thought kept me going—ok, you’ve overhauled your food, now overhaul your body! i was sustained by the thought that all the hard work that i was doing was going to help transform me into a strong and resilient being. the pain of the end of the day was a sign that i’d pushed my body, and the relief i felt each morning was a sign that my body was healing and establishing a new baseline of strength and wellness. although i hurt, i was, for the first time, on a path to wellness—-real wellness, not an artificially created and unsustainable imitation of wellness. hard work on the farm is going to allow me to shed some of the weight that is holding me back.
so right now i’m sitting in front of my computer, anticipating the start of another three-day week of farm work. i’ll go in again tomorrow, and hopefully i’ll be a little less sore and tired than i was the week before. i’m working my body and i’m eating the earth’s bounty, and for the first time ever, i feel as though i’ve found not a diet, but a sustainable, healthy lifestyle. i am able to benefit from my community but also to put back into it. if you buy a squash at the bridgton farmer’s market, i may have picked it. if you buy kale from whole foods, i might have weighed and bunched it. i truly feel a sense of community when i think about things like that as compared to my life in tuscaloosa.
i’m also waiting on stephen to get back from summit springs farm with our weekly csa share. when he does, i’ll carefully plan our week so that nothing will go to waste. our only problem so far is that, between the csa and the farm, there’s an overabundance of food. for this reason, i really feel that my next move is to experiment with food preservation. i know that, while food is overabundant right now, pickings will be slim throughout the long winter. i don’t want to ruin all of my progress when the shares stop coming in. likewise, i’ll only be working on the farm through the end of august. i’ve got to use my time wisely and think of ways to move and work once my time on the farm is over. as of right now, my biggest challenge is going to be discovering how to live locally, sustainably, and actively throughout all seasons of the year—not just in the abundance of harvest time.
as has rarely been the case with regard to my diet and lifestyle, for once, i’m excited about the challenge.
to be continued….